~CLOTHING~

In all cultures, traditional costume is an indicator of national character and values. Koreans use "ot " as a general term for clothing. Koreans have designed their ot to cover their whole body but for comfortable use. Traditional clothing is called "hanbok," an abbreviation of the term Han-gukboksik (Korean attire). Moreover, forms, materials and designs in hanbok provide a glimpse into the Korean lifestyle, while its colors indicate the values and world view of the Korean people. Hanbok is a kind of apparel of the Caftan type. The outer top garment is loose fitting and opens in the front. Its single piece coat mirrors other Asian designs. 

Women's hanbok is comprised of a wrap-around skirt and a jacket. It is often called chima-jeogori, 'chima' being the Korean word for skirt and 'jeogori' the word for jacket. Men's hanbok consists of a short jacket and pants, called 'baji', that are roomy and bound at the ankles. Both ensembles may be topped by a long coat of a similar cut called 'durumagi'. Hanbok worn today are patterned after those worn during the Confucian-oriented Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Yangban, a hereditary aristocratic class based on scholarship and official position rather than on wealth, wore brightly colored hanbok of plain and patterned silk in cold weather and closely woven ramie cloth or other high-grade, light weight materials in warm weather. Commoners, on the other hand, were restricted by law as well as finances to bleached hemp and cotton and could only wear white, pale pink, light green, gray or charcoal colors.

Royal Clothes
The early Joseon Dynasty kings made neo-Confucianism the ruling ideology. Its emphasis on formality and etiquette dictated the style of dress for the royal family and the aristocrats and commoners for all types of occasions including weddings, and funerals. Integrity in men and chastity in women became the foremost social values and was reflected in the way people dressed.

The Beauty of Hanbok
The beauty of hankbok lies in the harmony of its colors and its bold, simple lines. Most 'jeogori' have a snap tie ribbons on the inside to hold them closed. The long ribbons of the jacket are tied to form the otgoreum. The 'otgoreum' is very important because it is one of three things by which the beauty and quality of hanbok is judged. The other two are the curve of the sleeves, 'baerae' and the way the 'git', a band of fabric that trims the collar and front of the jeogori, is terminated. The ends of the git are generally squared off and a removable white collar called the dongjeong is placed over the git. The regular pleats of the chima stretch downward from the high waist and increase in width as they reach the lower end of the traditional skirt, creating a sense of gracefulness.

Gat(Men's hat)
Durumagi
The durumagi is a traditional overcoat worn on special occasions over the traditional jacket and pants.
Baji
Baji refers to the lower part of the men's hanbok. Compared to western style pants, it does not fit tightly. The roomy nature of the cloth is due to a design aimed at making the cloth ideal for sitting on the floor.

Kkotsin
The kkotsin refers to silk shoes on which flower patterns are embroidered. They play an important role in completing the graceful line of the lower rim of the chima.

 

Jeogori The jeogori makes up the upper part of hanbok. Men's jeogori are larger and simplistic while women's jeogori are rather short and characterized by curved lines and delicate decorations.
Dongjeong The dongjeong refers to a white collar attached along the rim of the neckline. It contrasts and harmonizes with the overall curve of the neck.
 
Otgoreum (Cloth Strings) The otgoreum is a women's ornamental piece, which hangs vertically across the front of the chima (women's skirt).
Baerae (Jeogori Sleeve)
The baerae refers to the lower lines of the sleeve of either the jeogori (traditional jacket), or the magoja (outer jacket). It features a circular line which is naturally curved, similar to the line of the eaves of the traditional Korean house.     

 Chima

The chima is the women's outer skirt. There are different kinds of chima: single-layered, double-layered, and quilted. Pul-chima refers to a chima with a separated back, whereas a tong-chima has a seamed back.

 

Patterns
Traditional patterns graceful lines and color combinations enhance the beauty of hanbok. Plant, animal, or other natural patterns are added to the rim of chima, the areas surrounding the outer collar shoulders.

Beoseon
The beoseon corresponds to a pair of contemporary socks. Although the shape of the beoseon does not reflect any difference in the gender of its users, men's beoseon are characterized by a straight seam.

 

Every day children's clothes were designed to keep babies warm. Families dressed their child in bright clothes and quilted socks for his or her first birthday (Tol), a tradition that has continued to the present day.

The clothes for the dol include a cheonbok (long blue vest) worn over a durumangi and a bokkeon (black hat with a long tail). Words and symbols related to children were sewn onto the fabric. Originally, the clothes were only for sons of the yangban class. Eventually, the custom and costume spread to other classes and included daughters as well, but with a different style of clothing.

girl's dangui (ceremonial clothes)              

dol (1st birthday) clothes

         saekdong jeogori 3-4 years old girls

saekdong jeogori 3-4 years old boys

sagusam

benet jeogori 

    teol baeja- vest lined with fur for warmth       

                            bokkeon  

                                                                embroidered socks                                         tosu- worn around the wrist

 Commoners wore white, except during festivals and special occassions such as weddings. Clothes for the upper classes were made of bright colors and indicated the wearer's social status. Various accessories such as foot gear, jewelry, and headdresses or hair pins completed the outfit.